Not Your Average Refugee Camp

July 27, 2006 - 11:22 PM by Allison

Hundreds of thousands have fled northern Israel and its steady rain of Hezbollah rockets. They’re fleeing to the southern part of the country, out of Hezbollah’s range. It’s a hardship for many, but most are making the best of things, with an almost holiday-like atmosphere.

“Check her out, she’s the most beautiful girl from northern Israel,” Ilan Faktor says, practically swooning, his white teeth beaming from his tanned face. He’s girl-hunting with his buddies, and the women are everywhere — all in bikinis and most with long, curly hair. “The best part,” Ilan says, “is that they can’t run away.”

Ilan and his buddies live in a crowded refugee camp set up on the beach in Ashkelon, Israel. All along the street, flags flap in the breeze from the sea. People here seem to love showing off their gym-toned bodies. Tents have been set up everywhere. In one, people practice yoga; next to it others are getting their bodies painted. In another tent Orthodox Jews try to recruit young people. One could easily mistake the place for a nightclub if it weren’t for the fact that everyone here has been displaced by a war. Hordes of young people under 25 mill around wearing the same kind of colorful armbands you might see in a hip urban club.

Ilan isn’t happy with the color of his armband — the blue has already faded. Worse yet, blue means he’s scheduled for the day’s earliest meal-time. Organizers in fact adopted the idea of arm bands from night clubs; here, though, it’s a way of arranging staggered mealtimes. In the end that’s only difference between this camp at the Israeli beach resort of Ashkelon, just south of Tel Aviv, and an all-inclusive holiday resort.

Make no mistake, though — it’s no holiday resort. It’s a refugee camp, in spite of the sun and the sound of waves pounding the beach. Everyone here has fled the rain of Hezbollah rockets that are showering northern Israel. First they came from Nahariya, then Carmiel and later from Haifa and Tiberias. In total, more than 2,600 have converged here. On Monday the camp was expanded, with new tents and toilets being set up on the white sand dunes right next to the sea.