As time goes by

February 19, 2007 - 10:54 AM by David Brinn

If you ever get underwhelmed or disillusioned over the emergence in Israel of all the cookie cutter malls and chain stores which are increasingly dotting our landscape more quickly than you can say ‘McDonalds’, take a step back in time with a visit to the ‘Clal Building’ on Jaffa Road in Jerusalem.

binyan clal

Time and progress have passed this giant monstrosity by, and walking into it is like stepping into the Star Trek transporter back to 1980.

I recall when it was built, it was touted as Jerusalem’s first indoor mall, and for a while in the mid-80s, it hosted the city’s top cinema, as well as dozens of shops, offices and restaurants.

But it was horribly designed, and like with all city establishments, when the malls took roost in the suburbs the Clal Building began to suffer. The movie theater closed, many of the shops left, and it looks like the place hasn’t been renovated in years.

70-year-old guards are inspecting 80-year-old patrons at the gates. When you walk in, it’s like a labyrinth of half floors, confusing signs, poor lighting, stores with handmade signs, and people walking around in a daze.

You can find just about anything there – repair shops, second-hand bookstores, falafel stands, appliance stores (used to also be an X-rated shop down in the basement, but I didn’t check if it was still there). I was there for one of the offices – a records department of a legal firm where I needed to get a form related to my mortgage.

After locating the elevators (hidden around a corner somewhere) and discerning between floor 2 and floor C2, I finally found the office. Opening the door, I swear I saw cobwebs floating away, as the two ladies up to their torsos in files and forms looked up in astonishment. I don’t think they had been let out in years, or had seen any other human shape.

After completing my task, I took the stairs back down to the store area, and out of nostalgia, got a cheese burekas on the way out – that staple of old-time Israel. It was only fitting.

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