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Picture of the week: October in the Old City

It’s October.

The evenings are getting cooler and Jerusalem is one of the first places in the country to feel the change in seasons.
In the evenings, the Old City walls are lit up, creating interesting shadows. Photo by Miriam Alster/FLASH90.

Guru in our backyard

The Israeli meditation community was all a flutter this week with the arrival of meditation guru (both figuratively and literally) Sri Sri Ravi Shankar who spoke yesterday at Hebrew University to a crowd of about 600.

Shankar is best known in Israel as the founder of the Art of Living, a type of meditation that includes very strenuous breathing exercises (not the usual calm “notice your breath”). My wife Jody has been an active practitioner for several years now and swears by the process.

Like a traveling Gandhi, Shankar has jetted around the world, from his home base of India to Baghdad, Kashmir, Sri Lanka and beyond, spreading his message of peace and love. He is speaking this week at the 2nd Israeli Presidential Conference. He was last in Israel in 2003 during the height of the suicide bombings.

The Hebrew University event included a talk by Shankar, guided meditation, and music by an Israeli ensemble on sitar and percussion.

At the end of the evening, Shankar invited the audience to come and stay with him in India. While some certainly will, many Israelis were happy to have gotten a glimpse of their guru in their backyard.

When’s the right time for a rite of passage?

It’s generally accepted that the Israeli perspective on the bar/bat mitzvah ceremony is different from its counterpart in the US.
I remember when Susie and three of her closest friends decided to celebrate their bat mitzvahs together – they were all around 40-years-old at the time.
They had been studying Torah as a group in Jerusalem for a year and a half. It all started when Boston-born Susie, who had already been in Israel for more than 20 years, started to feel that while her Jewish identity was her primary identity, which is why she had moved here, it was time for her to confront her “awe of the Torah.”
Sally, Ruti and Janet had also been in Israel for a couple of decades and for various reasons, none of the four had had a bat mitzvah back in the States. In fact, the first bat mitzvah was held by American rabbi Mordecai M. Kaplan, a major figure in Jewish thought and the founder of the Reconstructionist movement, for his daughter Judith in 1922.
So the culmination of 18 months of study and learning to read from the holy book was a ceremony at Jerusalem’s Kol Haneshama .
Now the idea didn’t resonate with everybody, but at that June ceremony 12 years ago no one could fail to be moved by the four women’s obvious quiet joy and pride in their achievements.
The bat mitzvahs of those forty-somethings inevitably came to mind when I received an e-mail recently, telling me about another group of delayed bar/bat mitzvah celebrants, en route to Israel.
Some of the participants at the upcoming celebration will be using walkers. Oxygen and wheelchairs will be available for emergencies. Five nurses will be traveling with the group. The average age of the participants in this particular version of the Jewish coming-of-age ceremony? Eighty-five.
Read more

Unrolling the Torah

I’m still flying high from Simchat Torah. The festival, which took place this past Shabbat in Israel and yesterday outside of the country, celebrates the conclusion of the annual public reading from the Torah.

In most traditional synagogues, the Torah is removed from the ark, there is lots of dancing, and everyone gets called up for an “aliyah” where they say a blessing on the Torah (this was classically just for men but in many Orthodox congregations today, women get their chance too).

This year, we decided to try something a little different: Simchat Torah at Nava Tehila, Jerusalem’s only Jewish Renewal synagogue.

About 200 congregants met outdoors at the Jerusalem Nature Museum under a canopy that shaded us from the mid-morning heat. The service started with 45 minutes of singing, accompanied by guitar and drums (this was definitely not an Orthodox gathering), and original music composed specifically for the holiday.

After singing, we received our aliyot in groups – all those over 60, 40-50 year olds, 30somethings, kids and so on.

But the highlight of the day was a literal unrolling of the Torah. As in the picture above (not taken on Shabbat), congregants arranged themselves in a circle with each person gripping a page as the entirety of the scroll was unfurled.

Seeing a Torah from beginning to end is quite a sight. Patterns begin to emerge; you see the start and ends of each of the five books of Moses, the Ten Commandments particularly stand out. Many people crawled under the parchment and walked around the pages, marveling like they would at a work of art hanging in a museum.

What happened next was even more wondrous. Several leaders of the community approached each person and asked him or her to point to a passage in the section below – without looking. The leader then read the section and gave it a humanistic interpretation.

I pointed to the section in the book of Genesis where Abraham and Sarah go down to Egypt and Pharaoh admires Sarah’s beauty. The meaning for me: that I should focus this year on the most beautiful woman in my life (the leader motioned to my wife standing next to me).

Our eleven-year-old son pointed to a section on kingship and was blessed with the challenge to act like a king this year – taking on responsibility to do good in the world.

The service ended with more singing, Yizkor and the prayer for rain (something this country is in dire need of).

Nava Tehila meets monthly on Friday nights in Jerusalem. More info here.

Of Matisyahu, Larry David and their [dis]connection to Israel

Just by chance, I’ve been interviewing quite a few American Jewish artistic types in the last couple of weeks – as disparate as Elan Attias, the vocalist for the late Bob Marley’s band The Wailers, iconoclast Brooklyn acoustic rocker Adam Green, Orthodox reggae rapper Matisyahu, and Seinfeld/Curb Your Enthusiasm icon Larry David.

It’s always interesting to learn how the American Jewish experience end up informing their views on Judaism – and Israel. For the 25-year-old, California-raised Attias, having an Israeli father was the key. He used to spend summers with his dad’s family in Kiryat Malachi, and liked it so much that he would lie to his parents about coming home and end up staying another month or two.

“One year, I did the Gadna military program – my Israeli friends said, ‘are you crazy, you’re volunteering?’ But I loved everything about being in Israel,” he told me.

It was also during his summers in Israel in the late 1980s that Attias – nicknamed the Young Lion – first grew to love reggae music, travelling every weekend to the Soweto Club in Tel Aviv.

“I was only 12 or 13 but I used to get on a bus in Kiryat Malachi by myself and go to Tel Aviv to the reggae clubs,” said Atias. “They had this DJ spinning the records, an Arab guy who loved the music but had no idea who he was playing, so they would ask me to announce the songs, and I’d hang out in the DJ booth all night long.”

Matisyahu also has a teenage Israel story which proved to be a life-changing experience. As a secular New York 16-year-old, he spent a semester in Israel at the Alexander Muss High School in Hod Hasharon.

“I remember one moment. They took us up to Mount Scopus around sunset to look at the Old City. For the first time, I got all emotional, and swept up in the idea of me being part of the Jewish people. Until then, it was a minor component of my identity, but it began to raise my awareness of the history and ancestry and rich background that I had. It was overwhelming,” he said, adding that it took a few years until Matisyahu became an Observant Jew and changed his name from Mathhew Miller.

These days, Matisyahu, who performed this week twice in Israel, spends a month here over the holidays every year.

Contrast the Attias and Matisyahu experiences with those of Adam Green and Larry David, born 30 years apart. David, who grew up ‘very Reform’ in Sheepshead Bay, New York, ended his Jewish experience after his bar mitzvah.

Since we were speaking a couple days after Rosh Hashana, I asked David how his holiday was, and he replied, “Uneventful.”

You don’t go to services on Rosh Hashana, I asked, treading dangerously close to a Larry David moment.

“Nah. I used to go to when I was married, that was part of my marriage arrangement, but it isn’t anymore,” he laughed.

Neither is Israel, apparently. When I asked if David had ever visited the homeland of the Jewish people, he answered, “No, I have no particular interest. Naturally, I want Israel to prosper and survive, but I’m not active in my support.”

Thirty years after David’s assimilation, a similar thing occurred to Adam Green, the quirky Brooklyn folkie, who as a member of The Moldy Peaches in 2001, co-wrote “Anyone Else But You,” the cloyingly charming song sung by the main characters in the 2007 indie sleeper hit film Juno.

Growing up in Mount Kisco, New York, he also was bar mitzvahed, but today, “I’m an atheist. I’m not at all observant now, what’s the point?” he said, adding, “I hope it’s not too late to make my first trip to Israel.”

Perhaps that’s the question all of American Jewry should be asking.

Foto Friday – Sukkot in Jerusalem

The awe-ful part of the Days of Awe are behind us and now it’s time to party! Sukkot, the Feast of Tabernacles, is the holiday when Jerusalem gets itself all decked out…

© RomKri

…and small wooden sukkot, or tabernacles, spring up overnight…

© monti_clif

…dotting the urban landscape.

© Pes & Lev

The Municipality of Jerusalem gets into the act too, with a large public sukka – the perfect opener to this month’s Autumn Nights Festival…

© RomKri

…as well as the annual Jerusalem March, attended by walkers from all over the country…

© monti_clif

…and from all over the world!

© monti_clif

Another event taking place at this time: the International Christian Embassy’s Feast of Tabernacles festival, this year celebrating its 30th anniversary. The festivities begin today with a worship concert at Ein Gedi, continue with a week of prayer and Bible teachings, and conclude with the Jerusalem March on October 6th.

Below is a montage of photos from last year’s Feast of Tabernacles. The photos above are courtesy of the wonderful Jerusalem Shots website – always worth a visit. And here’s wishing a Chag Sameach (happy holiday) to us all!

Feast of Tabernacles 2008 Photo Montage from ICEJ on Vimeo.

Shake your Gazan lulav

The upcoming holiday of Succot is providing an offbeat oppportunity for some actual mutual benefits between Israelis and Gazans.

During the Succot celebration, three species are wrapped together in a waving ritual: the ‘hadas’ (myrtle), the ‘aravah’ (willow) and the ‘lulav’ (date palm frond), which are held together with the ‘etrog’ (citron).

Because Israel doesn’t grown enough of the lulavim, they’ve regularly imported them from Egypt. However, due to a cartel there, the prices have skyrocketed, and Israel has found an unlikely source of affordable lulavs – Gaza.

Defense Minister Ehud Barak has signed orders lifting the Gaza blockade to enable the lulav to be imported for the holiday which begins on Friday. The request to import the branches came from the religious affairs ministry, which fears a local shortage as well as the high Egyptian prices could lead to people being unable to afford them.

However, Nehemia Rappel, head of the religious kibbutz movement, called this week for Israelis to buy only Israeli-made lulavs. According to reports, Israelis are expected to purchase approximately 600,000 lulavs in advance of the holiday; with prices will range from seven to 67 shekels.

The next test is whether we begin importing sufganiyot (jelly donuts) from Gaza on Hannuka.

It’s a wonderful life

It was one of those pre-Rosh Hashana crunches that most of us have experienced – a bunch of meals to shop for and cook, a house to clean, phone calls to make, and errands to do. That’s why two last-minute calamities almost did us in.

First was the emergency light in the car going on indicating a malfunction in some vital system. The second was evidence that the pipes leading from our bathrooms were totally clogged. Erev chag, Friday morning, while my wife waited for the plumber (who happens to be a good friend in the neighborhood), I took my chances and drove into my garage in Jerusalem, knowing that the window of opportunity to get it fixed in the few short hours they were going to be open were slim.

Sure enough, after rigging up the computer to the engine, Shimon the mechanic said, indeed there was something wrong with the car (gee, thanks) but that they wouldn’t be able to check in depth until Monday, after Rosh Hashana. He advised that I not drive the car until then, meaning leaving it with him.

However, we already had plans at our congregation in Jerusalem, where we drive to on Shabbats and holidays – my wife had an aliya honor scheduled and we had a meal planned with friends. In addition there was still a trip to the supermarket on tap, and various other tasks requiring a car.

I called home and relayed the bad news that we were going to have to cancel our plans and stay close to home for the holiday, and started walking toward a bus to go home. As I passed an Avis Rent a Car, I thought of the old Devo song, “Are We Not Men? No, We Are Devo” and thought, what would an adult do in this situation? Rent a car, of course.

So, ignoring the flashing overdraft in my bank account, I went in and walked out 20 minutes later with a chugging Suzuki sedan with stains on the upholstery.

Meanwhile, back at home, our plumber was solving that problem, and when hearing about our transportation woes, immediately invited us for dinner that night, along with two other families we were friendly with.

So, a few hours after we started with no car and clogged toilets, we had a rent a car, clog free pipes, and a great dinner invite. We brought our food we had already prepared along with us, and had a delightful time. The rest of Rosh Hashana was great, my wife shined on her aliya to the Torah, the Suzuki ran like a bumpy dream, and our bank is happy at getting that additional interest we’ll be paying on the overdraft.

Shana Tova!

Yoram, more wine please…

I don’t often get to spend work afternoons sitting at a poolside table laden with freshly grilled meats and vintage Yarden wine. But I can thank Madonna for making it happen – at least her connection to Kabbalah.

On the day after the superstar’s second sold out show in Tel Aviv last week, I was offered a chance to interview Karen Berg, the Los Angeles-based co-founder of the Kabbalah Center, and the person most identified hooking Madonna up with the ancient Jewish mysticsm.

At first, the meeting was supposed to take place at the Kabbalah Center in downtown Tel Aviv, but the night before, one of Berg’s assistants called and asked if I would be willing to drive a little farther north to a private villa in a small, exclusive community north of Netanya, where Berg would be spending the afternoon. Sure, I answered, with visions of entering the home and finding Madonna reclining on a chaise lounge poolside, chatting with Justin Timberlake.

Well, it wasn’t quite that heady. But the house was magnificent, there was a beautiful pool, and there were people lounging around outside. It turns out the home belonged to a young couple who were students at the Tel Aviv center, and had invited a few people to lunch, with Berg as the guest of honor.

As I was sitting in the gigantic living room interviewing Berg, a hired chef in a white apron and chef’s hat was stoking the grill and flipping thick steaks and skewered chicken (all kosher of course). Guests began arriving including Madonna’s longtime Kabbalah teacher Eitan Yardeni, Berg’s son Michael, and a young couple who greeted Berg – and then she whispered to me ‘That’s Gwyneth Paltrow’s sister.’

As I was getting ready to leave and the guests were sitting down for lunch, the husband host came up to me and said, ‘won’t you join us?’

It would have been rude to refuse, so for an hour, I ate, drank, and talked about Israeli politics, the differences between raising children in Israel and the US, Madonna’s after-party the night before (attended by Natalie Portman, Sasha Baron Cohen and Bar Refaeli), and, it turned out, very little Kabbalah. One of the Kabbalah Center people whispered in my ear that the rule was that everything said was off the record, and I nodded affirmatively, because I was too busy eating to think about taking notes or remembering anything for later,

I could have stayed for hours, but I remembered I had a job, profusely thanked my hosts, and started the long drive back to Jerusalem. Thanks Madonna, I owe you one.

Another Madonna controversy in Israel

We just can’t seem to get enough of Madonna here – even when we’re not referring to the singer. The latest ‘Madonna’ controversy broke on Thursday when a Tel Aviv art exhibit depicting various female Palestinian suicide bombers as the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus caused an uproar.

The exhibit at Beit Sokolov, which houses the Israeli Journalists Association, was quickly taken down following an outcry from the families of those killed or wounded in the attacks, as well as by organizations that represent terror victims.

According to media reports, the exhibit, which featured the work of local artists Galina Bleich and Liliah Check, consisted of a series of paintings of the women – some with halos around their heads – rendered to look like Renaissance-era portraits of Catholic saints.

The artists defended their work on Thursday, with Bleich telling Ynet that she didn’t understand how the exhibit was misconstrued as glorifying suicide bombers.

“I don’t understand how this turned into an insult to bereaved families. We came actually to emphasize the exact opposite. The baby in Madonna’s hands is in danger. This really needs to disturb people. It isn’t just an Israeli problem, but a global one. Therefore, we chose Madonna, who is a symbol of Christianity.

“This issue came up for me after I personally experienced a trauma when I was next to a terror attack on French Hill in Jerusalem. Ever since, I couldn’t stop thinking about it. It isn’t at all a political issue, but a personal issue. We are trying to ask how a woman, who is meant to love and give birth, became a source of hatred and murder. I don’t at all go into politics. But because we are such a political country, everyone is trying to figure out if we are left-wing or not,” explained Bleich.

“I hope it will all be okay this evening. If it impacts people so much, this means that the message is getting across. We wanted to think together with the audience about what is happening, and, apparently, now they are reflecting on it. Modern art can speak in a free language without a framework. Modern art is actually a language that shakes up the subjects that are painful to us. It’s not only flowers in a vase. Art asks questions and doesn’t provide answers,” said Bleich.

However, not everybody agreed with that assessment. The Jerusalem Post reported that Dalit Levy, whose 17-year-old stepdaughter Rachel was killed in a suicide bombing as she shopped at the Supersol supermarket in Jerusalem’s Kiryat Hayovel neighborhood on March 29, 2002, along with the store’s security guard, Haim Smadar, 55, arrived outside Sokolov House on Thursday afternoon with an Israeli flag draped over her shoulders, and placed plastic sheeting on the sidewalk.

“You want art?” she asked a group of reporters who had gathered around her. “Here’s art!” she said, before spilling a can of red paint next to a photograph of her stepdaughter and two memorial candles. “This is the blood of our children!”

Almagor, The Association for Terror Victims in Israel, also issued a stern response to the exhibit, and threatened to take legal action if the portraits were not taken down.
“Nahum Sokolov [for whom Sokolov House is named] is rolling in his grave today,” Almagor’s chairman, Meir Indor, told The Post.

There was no word on what the real Madonna, sightseeing in Jordn yesterday, had to say about her namesake’s controversy.

 

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