Aromification

July 23, 2008 - 4:47 PM by Jessica · 9 Comments
Filed under: A New Reality, Business, Food, General, History and Culture

Admittedly, I spend a lot of time in Jerusalem’s Machane Yehuda, the outdoor food — as well as clothing, kitchenware and other sundry items — market that is known for its fresh produce, spices, fish, breads and cheeses. I’ve always loved the charm of its narrow streets, the gruff stall owners, even jostling and jockeying for position with the other shoppers wheeling their heavily-laden grandma carts.

And, like many others, I stopped shopping there during the tough days of the intifada, when it didn’t feel safe, just like many other neighborhoods in Jerusalem. What brought me back was the renaissance of the shuk about seven years ago, led by Eli Mizrachi, a second generation roasted nut stall owner. Mizrachi, along with a group of fellow stall owners, opened the market’s first cafe, then known as Everything for the Baker as well as Coffee (now called Cafe Mizrachi), and led the charge to clean and renovate the shuk’s dilapidated streets and sidewalks.

Mizrachi’s efforts brought many people back to the market, as well as a different breed of stall owners, from clothing boutiques and small cafes to a couple of galleries and restaurants. And yes, their customers stick around to buy their halva and cheeses, olives and fruit. It’s one-stop shopping.

But I can’t say I’m pleased about the latest turn of events in Machane Yehuda. I was on my way toward Mizrachi the other day, when I noticed the distinctive black-and-red sign of a new Aroma cafe on the open part of the market. It’s the usual Aroma setup, chairs and tables outside, barista bar inside, customers happily chowing down on their egg sandwiches and coffees. The new Aroma is taking up the space of two stalls, and according to Eli Mizrachi, the space was purchased six months ago but ongoing arguments with City Hall delayed the opening of this particular branch.

I’m generally a satisfied and willing Aroma customer, but you won’t catch me frequenting this particular branch.

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