Leo’s grave

May 1, 2009 - 2:51 PM by Jessica · Leave a Comment
Filed under: General, Holidays, Immigrant Moments, Israeliness, Life

My father-in-law, Leopold Laufer, died two years ago on the eve of Yom Ha’atzmaut, Israel Independence Day, a significant date considering his very Zionist roots. A Czech by birth who made his way to the States with his father, mother and sister during the years of World War Two, he spent some time in Manila organizing Zionist youth, and continued in that vein for the rest of his life, working for the good of others as well as making aliyah at least three times during his life. The year that he died was a leap year, so it turns out that his yahrtzeit is actually the day after Yom Ha’atzmaut, but for us, it’s our own memorial day, just in the reverse of the Israeli Memorial Day-into-Independence Day.

We go up to his grave on Har Menuchot (roughly translated as the Hill of Eternal Rest) in Jerusalem on the day of his death, and while it is a hill, technically, in reality it feels more like a graveyard hi-rise. It’s the cemetery for Jerusalemites, given that the more historical Mount of Olives — which also has a much better view — is chock full.

And while we’re not of Sephardic descent — just plain ‘ol white bread Ashkenazi — Leopold Yehuda Laufer is buried in the Sephardic section of the cemetery, surrounded by Maimons and Turjemans, because we preferred the more laid-back Sephardic burial society. It’s sad to visit him, and yet, this year, there were some funny moments. Since he’s buried in a section above a firing range, anything that’s said is punctuated by rapid fire. Noisy and amusing, in turn. And this year, we brought the two new members of the family with us, my twin sons Ziv Maimon – no relation to those buried around Leo — and Lev Yehuda, who is named for his saba Leo.

If you squint a little, you can see the firing range in the distance

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Tags: ashkenaz, Har Menuchot, Mount of Olives, sephardic, Yom Ha'atzmaut

Latkes vs. Sufganiyot – The Real Story

December 7, 2008 - 5:38 AM by DavidS · 3 Comments
Filed under: Food, General, History and Culture, Holidays, Israeliness, Life, Pop Culture

Holiday food is very seasonal in Israel. It’s hard to find a slice of honey cake in February, and for the eleven months before Passover season, you have to search the supermarket high and low if you’ve a yen for matzah (there’s plenty of matzah meal, though – what would Friday night soup be without matzah balls?)

The holiday treat with the longest “season” is the sufganiyah – the Israeli equivalent of what’s known as a donut in the U.S. I saw my first sufganiyah of the season three days after Sukkot ended, and by now, a couple of weeks before Chanukah, sales are at a fever pitch. As every American knows, there are donuts (Entenmann’s style, chocolate with the hold in the middle), and donuts (Dunkin style, fried up and stuffed with fillings). Israeli donuts are more like the latter. The traditional version leans to a jelly filling, but each year there are more varied options – the other day, for example, I got one with a creamy peanut butter filling, and one covered with enough green frosting to make it look like something they’d give out at a St. Patrick’s Day parade.

Sufganiyot are seen as the “Israeli” Chanukah treat, while potato pancakes – “latkes” – may be more familiar to folks in the U.S. and Europe, meaning that, to Israelis, they’re the preferred holiday food in the Diaspora. Hence, among some locals, it is considered déclassé to prefer latkes; real Israelis go for the donut. But the story is a bit more complicated. Sufganiyot vs. Latkes is not an Israel – Diaspora thing, it’s a Sephardic – Ashkenazic thing. That’s right – like with the general acceptance of rice and legumes on Passover, the Sephardic majority has given its imprimatur to Israel’s Chanukah food culture.

Potatoes were more common in Russia and Poland, while the Levant and northern Africa had more access to wheat; hence, both cultures took what was available, fried it up, and served it. Since plain fried potatoes – or fried flour – aren’t the most appetizing foods, both cultures came up with ways to enhance the appearance and taste of their dishes; sour cream and jam for latkes, and honey or sugar syrup for the fried flour creation. Thus, the modern sufganiyah, with its jelly filling, actually takes a bit from both cultures – and, with the expansion of western donut culture, the traditional sufganiyah now has competition from American-style donuts and fillings.

The common denominator between sufganiyot and latkes, of course, is that they’re deep-fried in oil, commemorating the miracle of the oil of the Chanukah menorah. Lots of oil guarantees lots of calories – flying in the face of another Western import that many of us subscribe to, healthy eating. But there’s another, less fattening aspect to Chanukah cuisine, not as well known but quite traditional; the consumption of cheese and milk products, based on the story of Yehudit, who drugged the Greek general Holofernes with cheese, putting him to sleep and killing him, thus enabling the Jews to achieve a major victory. For Israelis who want to avoid the fried stuff but still eat Chanukah-style, then, the answer is easy; just indulge in some of the many low-calorie yogurts, puddings, ice-cream, and other dairy treats Israel is rightly famous for!

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