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Picture of the week: Acco festival back on track

This time last year, rioting over Yom Kippur led to a temporary postponement of the much-loved Acco Festival – an alternative theater festival that spills out onto the streets of the old Crusader city every Succot.

The festival was held eventually in December , but much was written about how the rioting between Jews and Arabs had damaged the fabric of a city where coexistence is the norm, not the exception.

One year on, and the festival, an event devoted to coexistence, is back in its usual time slot and last year’s unexpected outbreak of violence is being put to rest.

Now in its 30th season, visitors to the run-down, but beautiful World Heritage city, have been enjoying some 450 performances from theater groups across Israel and the rest of the world, including a show that follows six Acco residents who took part in last year’s riots.

Picture by Shay Levy/ Flash 90.

Picture of the week – A green Yom Kippur for all the world

For some it’s a solemn day of fasting, prayer, and asking for forgiveness, for others – specifically children – Yom Kippur is the day they claim the streets.

Ever year, children all over the country hone their cycling skills as the traffic stops and the roads clear. Whether it’s on a bike, roller blades, scooters, bimbas, or even unicycles, the nation takes to the street in what is probably – ironically – one of the most joyous holidays of the year.

Aside from the sheer pleasure of cycling undisturbed down some of Israel’s main arteries – like route 6, or the Ayalon Freeway, the quality of undisturbed silence is unparalleled. There are no buses, no cars, no trains, no airplanes even. The only sound is the whir of bikes, and the calls of children.

And the air quality, well…

I’ve long thought that some form of Yom Kippur actually ought to be adopted by other countries as an environmental measure. This must be the greenest day in Israel.

Every year there are reports in the local press about the dramatic decline in air pollution throughout Israel’s towns and cities. It’s a chance for the country to breathe again. Imagine what would happen if London followed suit, or New York, or Beijing. Perhaps this should be the latest campaign for environmentalists.

Yom Kippur Fashion Footwear Faux Pas

What non-leather footwear did you don this Yom Kippur? Crocs, you say? Oy va voy! You just violated the latest fashion halacha from none other than esteemed Lithuanian leader Rabbi Eliayshiv who banned the popular rubber shoes for being “too comfortable. “

The ruling, according to an article in Ynet, came in response to a question from an apparently misguided yeshiva student in a classic case of what’s known in Hebrew as a “she’alah kitbag.”

The term originates from army lore. A soldier asks his commander before a long training hike if they should be carrying their “kitbags” (or backpacks). The commander responds yes of course. If the soldier hadn’t asked, the answer would most probably have been no.

I remember – in the pre-Crocs days – wearing these very uncomfortable cloth shoes. I’d feel every pebble on the walk to synagogue which, before moving to Israel, was a considerable distance. It was like walking barefoot across hot coals. I thought we were supposed to be celebrating Yom Kippur not the book of Job.

I did a spot check during services this year in my local shul and the Crocs clearly outnumbered any other type of footwear. If Rabbi Elyashiv hasn’t reversed this ridiculous ruling by next year, I say we take up arms…er, feet. Power to the Crocs!

High holiday woes

I’ve spent the last two weeks alternately pining for and cursing my husband, who like many educated Jewish men with good voices and/or rabbinical ordination, spent Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur in the U.S., making some useful U.S. dollars in exchange for — in his case — working as a shliach tzibbur for the high holidays in a small New Jersey congregation.

This year’s gig offer came late in the season, as a friend decided not to take the job because of personal reasons. We also have plenty of personal reasons, including my two stepdaughters and nearly year-old twins, as well as mothers, siblings, nieces and nephews, all of whom benefit when our family unit is intact. But the financial reasons ended up outweighing the personal ones, because it’s hard to argue with an influx of cash during ‘these troubling economic times.’

So I said goodbye to Daniel a few days before Rosh Hashana, and shored up my own preparations. We headed out to my brother’s for Rosh Hashana, loading up the car with a load of gear. When it came to Yom Kippur, I couldn’t face the same kind of trip, and decided to stay home.

But remembering something my mother used to do with me 40-odd years ago, I decided to find a babysitter for the boys on Yom Kippur, so that I could do some of my own praying. And get out of the house. Of course, that’s easier said than done in a city like Jerusalem, where most people are either going to be in shul, or bicycle riding down the empty city streets. Anyway, you can’t really ask a fellow Jew to stay home from shul on Yom Kippur, even if they’re not planning on praying.

Instead, I asked our two Sri Lankan cleaning ladies, Renuka and Hindu, if they’d be interested in helping me out for a few hours. Given that they play with my boys each week when they’re at our house, as well as have some five children between them, I knew they’d be fine babysitters. And they were.

The moment that gave me pause was when Renuka asked me where my husband was, given that it’s the holiday season. I explained that he was working in the States, making some extra money. As I was speaking, I thought to myself that Renuka must think we’re crazy, to want extra money when we clearly live comfortably, in a lovely home, and affording babysitters and cleaners. And then, I thought again, and realized that no, she absolutely gets it, given that as foreign workers, she and Hindu have both left children, husbands and parents in Sri Lanka for more than three years. They know what it is to separate in order to make a living. Albeit, of a different standard.

So instead of feeling put upon when Daniel finally does return, I’ll try not to. Can’t promise, but given that he’s only been gone two weeks, and not two years, I can grin and bear it for one more day.

A Yom Kippur reflection

As we enter Yom Kippur, here’s a little anecdote to help us remember that we aren’t islands, and not only do we all need help, but we also need to give help.

A Package From Home, a grassroots organization based in Jerusalem that has been providing care packages for IDF soldiers for many years, also organized Respite Weekends for soldiers who had been severely wounded during their service to the country. Here’s the organization’s founder and director Barbara Silverman describing a recent weekend at Jerusalem’s Inbal Hotel for 15 soldiers.

“[The soldiers] were directed to their rooms where they were greeted with a welcoming basket of fresh fruit. Later that evening, they left for a banquet dinner at the
beautiful Papagaio restaurant, a short distance away.

At the restaurant, I was, once again, struck to see how young these soldiers were. I noticed a young man who was painfully thin and asked our liaison at the hospital about him. He explained that his wounds were not visible but rather he had suffered extensive internal surgeries and was now just beginning to be able to enjoy normal food.

Some of the soldiers were wearing artificial limbs and they were in the process of receiving
rehabilitation treatments to teach them to how use these aids properly. Each soldier had his own story to tell. After being in the hospital for so many months, the group was delighted to be able to share this weekend together. Several other diners at the hotel reported that a wonderful time was had by all.

They spent Friday afternoon visiting the nearby Sataf Cheese Farm, where they learned how different cheeses were made. The farm was wheel chair accessible and extremely enjoyable. Later that day, they enjoyed hanging out and swimming at the hotel pool before getting ready for Shabbat. That evening they shared a festive Friday night dinner and on Saturday, they enjoyed the famous Israeli breakfast and the incredible Shabbat buffet lunch. That evening, they left the hotel, rested, relaxed and feeling ready to face the next round of operations and rehabilitation treatments.

When the soldiers take their oath of allegiance to the IDF, they hold a Bible in one hand and their weapon in the other hand. They promise to protect the Land of Israel and the People of Israel. When they say the People of Israel, they mean all of us, where ever we live and not only those of us living inside of Israel. These soldiers have fulfilled their obligation and they have paid a heavy price. When they complete their treatments they will be living with the memory of that heavy price. Those memories will last a life time.

Following the weekend, Silverman received the following letter from the soldiers.

We thank you for your warm hospitality and that you gave us a place in your hearts. Because of people like you it is possible to believe in the realization of dreams.

With great appreciation….

The severely wounded from Tzahal and the volunteers from the Rehabilitation Center in Tel Hashomer Hospital.

“In order to fulfill an old dream
There is a need for one million dreamers who don’t blink their eyes…
And are willing to come close to their dream
Those who still remember how to ease the pain…”
Words by Ehud Manor – from the song Little Dream.

G’mar Hatima Tova.

Israelis go on tour

There’s plenty of rock shows being imported here this summer, but nothing that you’d want to write home about: Appearances by Joe Jackson, Suzanne Vega, Steve Vai, Chris Cornell and Dream Theater, may satisfy some people, and Leonard Cohen in September will likely be a grand event. And we may even have Madonna to celebrate Yom Kippur with.

But when bona fide heavyweights like Springsteen, U2, The Killers, Coldplay and Pearl Jam are only a couple thousand miles away in Europe, it’s a little hard to get excited about our dubious offerings.

But thanks to a couple of Israeli entrepreneurial endeavors, getting to those superstars isn’t any more difficult than finding parking near Ramat Gan stadium. On.Tour, a Tel-Aviv based online rock & roll travel agency – and similar companies like Kavei Hofsha – provide Israeli music fans with package tours to the top festivals and shows in Europe – including airfare, hotel, transportation and, of course, the coveted tickets to the shows, even those that are listed as sold-out.

And it’s suprisingly affordable – not much more than the vacation without the concert tickets would be. A quick glance at the On.Tours homepage finds a generous offering of summer festivals, including this year’s Rock Werchter, featuring Coldplay, Metallica and The Killers; Denmark’s Roskild with Coldplay, Oasis and Slipknot; Germany’s Rock Im Park (RIP) featuring The Killers, The Kooks and Placebo; Istanbul’s questionably titled Rock & Coke, featuring Linkin Park, Nine Inch Nails and the Kaiser Chiefs; and some of the most popular attractions – the heavy metal festivals like Wacken 2009, The Ozora Festival and Hellfest. The average price for a package, including three or four nights’ accommodations, runs between NIS 4,000 and NIS 5,000.

“Pretty quickly, we learned that Israelis weren’t interested only in music festivals, but in concerts as well. There’s not a lot of top names coming here, and through us, you can go see just about any of the top names touring Europe,” Ido Mart, the company’s marketing director told me last week.

Indeed, the site offers packages for artists ranging from U2 and Springsteen to Britney Spears and Take That, all for prices similar to the festival tariff. According to Mart, On.Tours not only removes the hassle of arranging your own flights and accommodations, it also eases the stress of the biggest task of all – getting tickets to sold out shows.

Lianna Yedida, 25, who has traveled on three On.Tours packages, including two festivals in Europe and is signed up to see Radiohead this summer in Berlin, can’t praise the service too much.

“Everything was great, and of course, it’s easier than doing it yourself. They worry about everything,” she said, adding that the attention to detail was the biggest feature. According to Mart, those details include providing free transportation from the airport to the hotel and back again, and other amenities, like tips on after-show parties and access to them.

So, if you’re going to take a vacation outside of Israel anyway, why not make it a musical one?

Holiday transitions

Hard to believe, but we are already in the middle of the chagim period, the month-long period of holidays that falls every autumn. We’re past Yom Kippur, a.k.a., the Festival of Bicycles, when a good chunk of the country spends the evening and following day in synagogue, while many kids take over the empty streets of all cities on the eve and day of Yom Kippur with bicycles – as well as skateboards, roller blades, skates and scooters. In fact, bicycle sales rise in the weeks prior to YK, with companies advertising Yom Kippur specials.

Then, it was straight into another Shabbat, as Yom Kippur ended on Thursday night, which meant a rush for the supermarket and butcher counter on Friday morning. Unlike the week before, when Rosh Hashanah ended and we went into another Shabbat, there wasn’t quite as much of a fresh chicken shortage, because the week before also coincided with the end of Ramadan, which meant a lot of chickens being eaten out there.

But the end of Shabbat this week brought the annual put-up-the-sukkah evening, when you gather your forces to snap together metal poles and string up the canvas walls. With Sukkot beginning Monday night, it’s another rush into the third holiday of the season, and the longest, at a full seven days. So now we’re thinking sukkah decorations of paper chains, plastic fruits and blinking lights, and one-dish meals that are easier to serve to the crowd.

I’ll let you know what I decide to make, as soon as I get started on the paper chains…

A tenuous coexistence

The Yom Kippur shutdown usually works. Whether you’re a secular Jews or a non-Jewish resident of Israel, you know that on Yom Kippur, the holiest day in Judaism, you don’t drive or play music in public out of respect to those who are observing the holiday.

But one man in the northern coastal mixed Jewish-Arab city of Acre didn’t abide by the unwritten societal rule – and as a result, all hell broke loose.

According to The Jerusalem Post’s report,
Tawfik Jamal – a resident of Acre’s Old City – made his way to the predominantly Jewish Ben-Gurion neighborhood in the eastern part of the city, blasting loud music from his vehicle., Jamal denied he had intended to provoke local residents, saying he had driven with his 18-year-old son and the son’s 20-year-old friend carefully and quietly from the Old City to the Ben-Gurion neighborhood, three kilometers away, to pick up his daughter from her fiancée’s home.

But police dismissed Jamal’s claims.
“This was a provocation. An Arab driver arrived in a Jewish neighborhood on Yom Kippur with blaring music, and refused to leave when asked to by local residents. We believe he was intoxicated. This was a deliberate act,” Galilee Police spokesman Ch.-Supt. Eran Shaked said.

The verbal confrontation between Jamal and the local residents quickly deteriorated into violence, as rocks and bottles were thrown at Jamal’s vehicle.
According to Jamal, he and his two passengers fled the car. The three were taken to hospital where they were treated for light wounds and discharged.

And then, to show you how rumors can spread faster than reason, false reports that Arabs were seriously harmed or killed by Jews reached the Old City, and then things began escalating.

Responding to the rumors, hundreds of Arabs set out from the Old City toward the Ben-Gurion neighborhood, walking down a main road, smashing store windows and cars along the way. Reports said the mob shouted “Kill the Jews,” “Allahu Akbar,” and “If you come out of your homes, you will die.”

At the same time, a few hundred Jews had congregated in the streets of the Ben-Gurion neighborhood. Fearing a deadly clash, police acted quickly, mobilizing “a very large force” to prevent the two groups from confronting one another, police said.

So, was it a deliberate provocation from an Acre Arab? An overreaction from the Acre Jews? And was the escalation simply the culmination of animosity that’s been built up between the two sides over years of living near each other?

Let’s not forget that in the scores of other areas in the country – in Haifa and the Galilee and in Jerusalem – there weren’t any similar reports. Let’s hope this was an aberration, and not a sign of a deterioration in relations between Israel’s Jews and Arabs.

Getting ready

The day of Yom Kippur eve is, ironically, usually quite pleasant.
Most people don’t go to work, the kids are home from school, and it’s almost like a Sunday morning would feel like if there were Sunday papers and football games on TV.

Since there’s no big meals to prepare for, you get a free pass for the morning – watching a movie in bed with the kids, doing some household chore that had been put off, or doing some reading in preparation for the fast and solemn day of prayer.

In the afternoon, though, the complexion noticeably changes, and one eerie element is that you being noticing that almost all the cars on your street are parked, and everyone is home. As it gets close to sunset, people start emerging from their homes, either dressed in their Beit Knesset finest, or for the neighborhoods kids, brandishing bicycles, scooters and any other mode of transportation that they can ride down the middle of the roads with.

After the Kol Nidre services in the evening, it looks like huge block parties everywhere you go, with neighbors and friends hanging out and milling around. It’s definitely one of my favorite moments of the calendar here, and so uniquely Israeli.

Here’s wishing you a meaningful Yom Kippur.

I’ll have mine sliced

As the country gears up for Yom Kippur, beginning on Wednesday night, the preparations are happening all over the place, in varied ways. There’s the greeting that people use during this time of year, when they say Gmar chatima tova, or chatima tova, meaning, may you be written in the Book of Life. That’s a switch from last week, when people were just saying Shana Tova, or Happy New Year. Chatima tova is kind of a heavy greeting to be tossing out to everyone you see, and you gotta hope that it’s heartfelt, because otherwise, what book will you end up in?

And those are just the greetings. There are those of us who are seriously thinking about repentance and forgiveness. And there are those of us who are thinking about the 35th anniversary of the Yom Kippur War. And then there are those of us, yours truly included, who are thinking about the food needs for the next five days, given that Yom Kippur ends and then Shabbat begins. I’m thinking about it because of a food incident last week, before Rosh Hashanah.

I was at Rafi, our local bakery, to buy challot for the chag. Truth to tell, I don’t usually like their challot, but I do like their babka, and in the interest of time, we were willing to eat their challot for the holiday. So I got there at 10:30 am on erev chag, which is usually early enough to have your pick of the challot, and lo and behold, there were no challot to be had. The shelves were empty and people were lined up at the counter, waiting for the huge, round challot to come out of the oven. I got lucky, and snagged one tremendous challah right away, and then a fresh batch came out of the oven, fulfilling all of my challah needs.

But as I was waiting to pay, an American guy runs in, bicycle helmet still on his head, and asks, in English, if there’s any sliced challah available, or if the bakery has a slicing machine. A hush immediately sets in over the crowd. Who would want their challah pre-sliced? What kind of person is this? The owner, of course, said no, because who ever wants their challah pre-sliced?

The saga continued. He called his wife from his cellphone, asking if she still wanted challah given that it wouldn’t be pre-sliced. “Yes, yes, I promise I’ll slice it very carefully, you’ll never know that it wasn’t sliced in a machine,” he told her. “If they don’t slice it here, I can’t imagine that there’ll be another bakery where they do.” The rest of us looked at each other, shrugging our shoulders, because, hey, clearly there’s no bakery that slices challah ahead of time.

Anyway, I took my pile of challot home, where they all got eaten (torn, not sliced), and now I’m thinking that I’d better get to the bakery much earlier on Wednesday, and on Friday. Because I’ll tell you one thing: I may not like their rest-of-the-year challot, but their High Holiday challot? Fab-o.

 

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